Detailed DIY Pottery Barn Dining Table Plans

Back in September, my husband and I built our very first piece of furniture. It was a dining table modeled after the Pottery Barn Hyde line. It was much easier to put together than expected and since then I have received several requests for detailed plans on how we put it together. Well, the day has finally arrived!These DIY Pottery Barn dining table plans were put together using Google SketchUp and while I tried my hardest to keep all of the measurements exact, sometimes the program just would not work with me. So please follow the measurements and do not rely solely on the photos.These plans are modified from the Tryde Coffee Table plans posted on Ana-White.Dimensions:

71" wide x 35" wide x 30" tall

Supplies List:

2 1/2″ Screws

2 – 4×4 posts 8′ length (we used the left overs for the bench)

3 – 1×4 8' length boards

2 – 2×2 8′ length boards

1- 2×6 8′ length board

10 – 2x4 8′ length boards

Sandpaper (100, 150, and 220)

Wood putty (we left the screws exposed and they still look great)

Stain, varnish, paint or other finishing product

Paint brush

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

hammer

safety glasses

hearing protection (we love these headphones because you can plug in your phone or mp3 player)

miter saw (or have the hardware store cut your wood for you)

drill

sander

Cut List:

A) 4 – 4×4 Posts @ 28 1/2″ (Legs)

B) 2 – 1×4 @ 29 1/2″ (Leg Joiners)

C) 2 – 1×4 @ 57 1/2″ (Side Aprons)

D) 4 – 1×4 @ 2 1/2″ (End Apron Spacer)

E) 2 – 1×4 @ 24″ (End Aprons)

F) 4 – 2×2 @ 29 1/2″ (Tabletop Supports)

G) 2 – 2×6 @ 35″ (Breadboard Ends)

H) 10 – 2×4 @ approx. 60 3/4″ (Tabletop Pieces – Measure the table before cutting these boards)

Instructions:

Cut out all boards except H. To get the best fit, you will measure and precisely cut out each of the boards H to fit the table. Remember, use the 2 1/2″ screws unless otherwise noted and always predrill and countersink your screws. Use glue on all joints to keep the table from separating later.Step 1: Screw the Leg Joiner (B) to the legs (A) as shown below. Do this on both sets of legs. Use the measurements below to guide you.

Step 2: Screw the side aprons (C) into the ends of the leg joiners (B) as shown below.

Step 3: Screw the end apron spacers (D) into the legs as shown below.

Check for square. Measure from one end diagonally across the table. Then measure on the other diagonal. If the measurements are the same, your table is square. If not, evaluate where you are off and make the necessary corrections.Step 4: Screw the end aprons (E) into the end apron spacers as shown below.

Step 5: Screw in the tabletop supports (F) as shown below, spacing the supports approx. 9″ apart.

Step 6: Now screw the breadboard ends into the tops of the legs as shown below. The edge of the breadboard is centered on the leg.

Step 7: Take a length measurement between the breadboard ends. Be very precise and cut your first tabletop board (H). Place the board with one edge centered on the table and screw in place from the bottom through the supports (F). (The board should not be centered as it appears to be in the image)

Step 8: Continue to measure and cut the tabletop boards for the top of the table. Repeat step 7. This time, make sure the edges of the tabletop boards line up. Do not leave gap between the tabletop boards. Use clamps to keep boards together.

Step 9: Stand back and admire your beautiful table. Time to send out the dinner invitations!

Our table (pictured below) was stained using Minwax in Jacobean. There are three coats of stain and three coats of polyurethane. It makes me so proud every time someone new comes over and compliments it before they know we built it.

DIY ideas, MinimalismDeanna YatesJune 10, 201248 Comments